STEVEN MARSHALL PHOTOGRAPHY
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Frames of Mind

Thoughts inspired by images of the Peninsulas​
Ardgour | Ardnamurchan | Moidart | Morvern | Sunart

Equinox Sunsets and Aurora

14/9/2021

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Depending on your point of view, Autumn either starts on 1 September (meteorological autumn) or on the 23 September (astronomical autumn). The latter is when the Autumnal Equinox takes place and is when day and night are of equal length and when the Sun rises due east and sets due west. Although this means that the dark nights return, it does mark the beginning of the beautiful sunsets over Loch Sunart that we get here at Resipole during the autumn and winter months and also increased chances of seeing the Aurora Borealis.
An autumn sunset on Loch Sunart | Resipole Scotland | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 1: Sunart Sundown - Loch Sunart, Resipole, Sunart
Most people know that the Sun rises in the east and sets in the west, but they may not realise that this is quite a generalisation. In fact, the Sun only rises due east and only sets due west on two days of the year; the days of the Spring Equinox and the Autumnal Equinox which, for 2021, are March 20 and September 22. To illustrate this, Figures 1 and 2 show the location of the rising and setting sun at the Spring Equinox and Autumnal Equinox, respectively.
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Figure 1: Location of rising and setting sun at the Spring Equinox - Loch Sunart, Resipole, Sunart
Created using The Photographer’s Ephemeris Mobile App
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Figure 2: Location of rising and setting sun at the Autumnal Equinox - Loch Sunart, Resipole, Sunart
Created using The Photographer’s Ephemeris Mobile App
​Once it has risen due east and set due west at the Autumnal Equinox (Figure 2), the Sun rises and sets a tiny bit further south each day until the Winter Solstice, the day on which it rises as far to the southeast as it ever does and sets as far to the southwest as it ever does (See Figure 4). It then changes direction and begins moving north each day, eventually rising due east and setting due west on the Spring Equinox (Figure 1) before continuing northwards until the Summer Solstice, when it rises as far to the northeast as it ever does and sets as far to the northwest as it ever does (Figure 3).
​Once it has risen due east and set due west at the Autumnal Equinox (Figure 2), the Sun rises and sets a tiny bit further south each day until the Winter Solstice, the day on which it rises as far to the southeast as it ever does and sets as far to the southwest as it ever does (See Figure 4). It then changes direction and begins moving north each day, eventually rising due east and setting due west on the Spring Equinox (Figure 1) before continuing northwards until the Summer Solstice, when it rises as far to the northeast as it ever does and sets as far to the northwest as it ever does (Figure 3).
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Figure 3: Location of rising and setting sun at the Summer Solstice - Loch Sunart, Resipole, Sunart
Created using The Photographer’s Ephemeris Mobile App
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Figure 4: Location of rising and setting sun at the Winter Solstice - Loch Sunart, Resipole, Sunart
Created using The Photographer’s Ephemeris Mobile App
​Image 1, at the top of this blog, was taken at Resipole during sunset on the day after the Autumnal Equinox of 2019, with the camera facing southwest down Loch Sunart towards the Isle of Carna and the hills of Morvern.  If you look closely, you can see a patch of intense colour behind the wooded hillside on the right-hand side of the image. This was the spot where the sun was setting due west and for me, such a sight is one of the most welcome of the year because it marks the return of spectacular sunsets to this part of the Loch.

​With the passing of the autumn months and the movement of the setting sun towards the south, these sunsets become more and more intense. They are something that I’ll never tire of photographing even though I have taken countless photos of them from this spot. I can honestly say that I’ve never seen the same mix of colours twice. Each sunset is different because of the varying position of the sun and the infinite range of possible cloud formations that reflect the light from the sun and produce the kaleidoscope of colours.
 
The Autumnal Equinox also paves the way for increased chances to see aurora borealis displays. According to NASA, the equinoxes are prime time for Northern Lights, because the geomagnetic activity that causes them is more likely to take place in the spring and autumn than in the summer or winter. In addition, we tend to have more clear nights in spring and autumn so this, combined with more geomagnetic activity, may be the reason why I tend to have captured most of my Northern Light images in September/October and March/April. 
Northern Lights over Loch Shiel | Acharacle, Ardnamurchan Scotland | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 2: Night School - Loch Shiel Jetty, Acharacle, Ardnamurchan
Image 2 above was taken 4 days after the Autumnal Equinox of 2019, when I had a client out with me for some night photography tuition. We had spent the first part of the night preparing for and taking photographs of the Milky Way rising above Loch Sunart and while we were doing this a very high Aurora Alert came through on my phone. We quickly packed up our camera gear and headed up to Acharacle and set it up again on the jetty there is on Loch Shiel. It is a perfect spot to look for and photograph the Aurora Borealis because it faces directly towards northern horizon that has only a few distant and low-lying hills on it, meaning that the view north is clear of any obstructions. We had a very productive time there and also at another couple of locations nearby and came away with some great shots of the “Merry Dancers”.
​
Finally, although the equinox referred to as a day by many people, it is actually the exact moment in time when the tilt of the Earth’s axis and Earth’s orbit around the sun combine in such a way that the axis is inclined neither away from nor toward the sun. For 2021, the Autumnal Equinox will be at 8:21 pm on Wednesday 22 September and the Spring Equinox was at 9:37 am on Saturday 20 March.
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Preserving A Lost Scene

17/8/2021

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For me, one of the magical things about photography is its ability to capture scenes and moments in the present for the viewers of the future, before they are lost forever, just like the scene in this photo I took in August 2019 of an old sailing boat high up on the rocks at Samalaman Bay near Glenuig.
An old sailboat high on the rocks in Samalaman Bay near Glenuig at sunset | Moidart Scotland | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 1: On the Rocks I - Samalaman Bay, Glenuig, Moidart
​I am so fortunate to be able to live where I do. This special corner of Scotland is a photographer’s paradise with its diverse landscape of mountains, moorland and woodland and an amazing coastline that is home to beautiful white sand beaches and dramatic rocky shorelines. It is a place that has something to offer the photographer in all seasons and in the summer months, the northern coastline of Moidart and Ardnamurchan is the place to go with the camera. In these months, the late evening sun sets in the northwest and brings beautiful sunsets to this part of the West Highland Peninsulas.
I spend many hours there on late summer evenings, watching the sun set beyond the stunning silhouette of the Small Isles of Eigg and Rùm, marvelling at the natural beauty that is all around and waiting for the perfect moment to press the shutter button on my camera. However, it is not just nature that contributes to making the perfect picture. Sometimes, the evidence of the presence of man can add to the story behind the image and one such place where this was the case was at Samalaman Bay, near Glenuig.
“What I like about photographs is that they capture a moment that’s gone forever, impossible to reproduce.”
​- Karl Lagerfeld
r a few years, an old sailing boat had sat perched high up on a huge, rounded rock on the southern edge of the bay, in a position such that it combined with the edges of the bay and the distant silhouette of the Small Isles to create the perfect composition. I visited the bay on a perfectly still August evening in 2019 when a high spring tide coincided with sunset. Even with almost 5 metres of tide, this old sailboat was high enough up on the rocks to remain steadfast in its position. After taking in the scene for a while, I set up my camera on its tripod, set the exposure time to 90 seconds, pressed the shutter button to capture and freeze 1½ minutes of the most magical west coast sunset to create the image at the top of this blog titled “On the Rocks I”.
I was privileged to visit Samalaman Bay that evening because the scene I captured has now been lost forever. A few months later, in January 2020, a winter storm surge combined with a high spring tide to create a sea high enough to lift the old boat from its rocky perch and leave it rather mournfully lying on its side on the muddy bank beside the rocks. A few months later, in the October 2020, it was lifted from this muddy resting place and taken to the “boatyard in the sky”.
​
SEO: An old sailboat being raised from the shore of Samalaman Bay near Glenuig | Moidart Scotland | Loch Shiel Garage
Image 2: The old boat being taken from the bay
(Image Courtesy of Loch Shiel Garage)
When I now visit this spot in Samalaman Bay, it certainly feels that something is missing. That old boat sure was essential to the picture-perfect scene that I captured and although I was saddened at its departure, I seek great comfort in knowing that I did manage to capture it before it was gone forever. To me, this ability to capture the present for the viewers of the future is the power of photography and is summed up by this quote by Karl Lagerfeld:
“What I like about photographs is that they capture a moment that’s gone forever, impossible to reproduce.”
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Shining in the Night

17/7/2021

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Once rare noctilucent, or “night-shining” clouds are becoming a more common feature of our summer night sky and the increased presence of these ghostly whispers of light shimmering high up in the Earth’s atmosphere is thought to be as a result of human-caused climate change. Although this is certainly cause for concern, the sight of them is quite mesmerising and if you are a night owl, it is a sight that is not too difficult to photograph.
Midsummer noctilucent, or
Image 1: Tioram Night Shining I - Castle Tioram, Dorlin, Moidart
​In the 8 or so weeks either side of the Summer Solstice, which this year was on 21 June, the days are long and the nights are short. In fact, the sun gets to no more than 10-15 degrees below the horizon and this makes it a lean period for both aurora chasers and stargazers because astronomical, or full darkness does not occur at any point during the night. The resulting all-night twilight means that it is simply too light to see the “Merry Dancers” and all but the brightest stars.
 
However, all is not lost because what you can see are noctilucent, or “night-shining” clouds. They become visible in the north to north-west sky as darkness falls and just as the brightest stars become visible. They have the appearance of ghostly whispers of light shimmering in the all-night twilight and are usually set against a pearly-blue sky.
Midsummer noctilucent, or
Image 2: Tioram Night Shining IV - Castle Tioram, Dorlin, Moidart
​These night-shining clouds are the highest clouds in Earth's atmosphere. They form in the middle atmosphere, or mesosphere, roughly 80 kilometres (50 miles) above Earth's surface. They are thought to be made of ice crystals that form on fine dust particles from meteors and volcanic activity. These ice coated dust particles then reflect the light that the sun projects high up into the sky, when it is between 6 to 16 degrees below the horizon, to create an illuminated cloudy veil in the northern sky at latitudes between ±50° and ±70°.

They are first known to have been observed in 1885, two years after the 1883 eruption of Krakatoa, but it remains unclear as to whether their appearance had anything to do with the volcanic eruption or whether their discovery was due to more people observing the spectacular sunsets caused by the volcanic debris in the atmosphere. 
​Once considered to be extremely rare, sightings of these shimmering, high altitude clouds are becoming more common and this increase is thought to be an indicator of human-caused climate change. In studies undertaken in the past 2-3 years, researchers used satellite observations and climate models to simulate how the effects of increased greenhouse gases from burning fossil fuels have contributed to noctilucent cloud formation over the past 150 years. Their findings suggest that the extraction and burning of fossil fuels increased water vapor concentrations in the mesosphere by about 40 percent and this has more than doubled the amount of ice that forms there. As a result, the researchers concluded that human activities are the main reason why noctilucent clouds are significantly more visible now than they were 150 years ago.
Midsummer noctilucent, or
Image 3: Tioram Night Shining II - Castle Tioram, Dorlin, Moidart
​This does indeed give me cause for concern, but nevertheless, the sight of these shimmering and wispy clouds illuminating the upper reaches of our summer night sky is quite mesmerising. I was fortunate enough to both see and photograph them on a mid-July night at Castle Tioram when it barely got dark. They seemed to not only illuminate the sky but also the landscape around me. There is still time to see them so, if you are outside after midnight on a clear night, look north and you may be able to pick them out. 
Midsummer noctilucent, or
Image 4: Tioram Night Shining III - Castle Tioram, Dorlin, Moidart
​If you have a modern digital camera fitted with a wide-angle lens which you can mount on a tripod, you can try taking some photographs of them yourself. Put the camera on the manual setting, open up the aperture to at least f4, set your ISO 800 and take a few test shots at exposures of several seconds until you find the exposure time that works. You could even try photographing them with your smart phone if it has a “Night Mode” setting.
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The Changing Small Isles

17/5/2021

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Views of the Small Isles of Muck, Eigg, Rùm and Canna are ever-changing as you make the journey from east to west along the coast of Moidart and north Ardnamurchan and past its spectacular cliffs, dramatic rocky shores and beautiful white sand beaches. While the dramatic peaks of Rùm’s Cuillin Mountain range are ever present, the distinctive profile of Eigg and its highest hill, An Sgurr, is a prominent feature at first, but it gradually disappears from view to be replaced by the more diminutive profile of Muck as you reach the journey’s end…….
The sun setting on the Isle of Eigg as viewed from Ardtoe, Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 1: Golden Eigg II - Sailean Dubh, Ardtoe, Ardnamurchan

​Introduction

Scotland has 40 National Scenic Areas which cover 13% of its land mass and they earn this designation because their outstanding scenery makes them the country’s finest Landscapes. One of these areas is Morar, Moidart and Ardnamurchan here on Scotland’s north-west coast. It is home to a coastline of spectacular cliffs, dramatic rocky shores and beautiful white sand beaches. Added to all of this are breath-taking views of the Small Isles of Muck, Eigg, Rùm and Canna, which sit a few miles west out in the Sound of Arisaig and just south of the Isle of Skye.
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As you travel from Moidart in the east, to Ardnamurchan in the west, your perspective of the Small Isles changes significantly, with both them and features on them coming into view and disappearing again after only a few miles. This everchanging view makes photographing both them and this coastline an absolute joy and now that the evening sun is in the north-west, my plan for the coming weeks is to photograph to do just that. My aim is to capture this spectacular coastline while it is bathed in warm sunlight at the end of our long summer days. In the meantime, however, I thought I would describe this somewhat special journey and share some of the images that I already have. 

Moidart

The Isle of Eigg Viewed from Glenuig, Moidart | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 2: Eigg Blues - Isle of Eigg from Rubh a' Chairn Mhoir, Glenuig, Moidart

​If you decide to avoid the Corran Ferry and take the “long-way round” to get to the Peninsulas, driving from Fort William, through Glenfinnan and on to Glenuig you catch the occasional glimpse of the Small Isles as you make your way down the shore of Loch Ailort. However, they really come in to view when you reach the bend in the road at Rubh a' Chairn Mhoir, just before you get to Glenuig (Image 2). From there you can see the full length of the Isle of Eigg, with the distinctive shape of An Sgurr rising at its southern end.  This feature is the result of one of the last eruptions of a volcano, the core of which now forms the Isle of Rùm. It is the highest hill on the island and its striking profile forms a landmark that is visible for many miles around.
The Small Isles of Eigg and Rum viewed from Smirisary, Moidart | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 3: The First View of Eigg and Rùm on the Walk to Smirisary
​On reaching Glenuig, you can turn off the main road, drive past the Glenuig Inn and continue westward for about a mile and a half to reach the road end. From there, a short walk takes you to Smirisary, an isolated and roadless crofting village that sits between a rocky foreshore and a steep hillside about two miles to the west of Glenuig. As you walk the final half mile to the village, your view of the sea is obstructed by a small hill, but as you get to the top of it, the view dramatically opens up to reveal islands that you feel you can almost touch (Image 3).
A summer sunset over the Small Isles of Eigg and Rum viewed from Smirisary | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 4: Summer Tranquillity II - The Small Isles of Eigg and Rùm viewed from Smirisary, Moidart
​I like to visit Smirisary in mid to late summer. It is a great place to capture Muck, Eigg and Rùm sitting in flat calm seas while they are silhouetted against the colourful skies that are a feature of the sunsets there at that time of year. From there, you get a closer view of the distinctive shape of An Sgurr and the dramatic peaks of the Rùm and its Cuillin mountain range, which sits behind Eigg and simply adds to the magic you are witnessing (Image 4). 
A summer sunset over the Isle Eigg viewed from Smirisary, Moidart | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 5: Summer Tranquillity I - The Small Isle of Muck viewed from Smirisary, Moidart

​​Smirisary is also a great place from where to see Muck, the smallest of four main islands in the Small Isles because from so many other places, its low-lying form is often hidden from view or is obscured by the presence of Eigg and Rùm behind it. From here though, it can be seen sitting in splendid isolation on the western horizon (Image 5).

​
​When you leave Smirisary and Glenuig behind and drive over to Kinlochmoidart, you loose sight of the islands as they become hidden by the hills that surround you. However, if you look behind you as you follow the road, you can catch a glimpse of the now familiar An Sgurr on Eigg as it sits a way out on the western horizon beyond the entrance to the North Channel of Loch Moidart (Image 6).

After that, you head well inland, losing the view of the islands again as the road takes you towards Acharacle, where you cross over the River Shiel and move from Moidart and into Ardnamurchan.
The view down Loch Moidart to the Isle of Eigg, Kinlochmoidart | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 6: Autumnal Channel - Loch Moidart, Ardmolich, Moidart

East Ardnamurchan

Sunset over the Isle of Eigg viewed from Ardtoe, Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 7: Golden Eigg I - Sailean Dubh, Ardtoe, Ardnamurchan
If you want to get a view of the Small Isles on this part of your journey, you need to head out to the small but beautiful sandy beach at Ardtoe where a short walk out to the headland on its western side brings the southern end of Eigg and An Sgurr back into view. From there, you also get a glimpse of Rùm because the high peaks of the Rùm Cuillin are just visible above the land that shelters the beach from the open sea (Image 1 and Image 7). 
A sunset over the Isle of Eigg viewed from Ardtoe, Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 8: Enlightened - Isle of Eigg viewed from Ardtoe, Ardnamurchan
​While at Ardtoe and if you don’t mind a walk over uneven and often boggy ground, you can make your way out to the end of Rubha Luinngeanach where you get a more open view of Eigg with Rùm behind it. It was at this spot where I witnessed what I think is the most spectacular sunset I have ever seen over the Small Isles (Image 8). I was out there on a rather cloudy July evening, so my hopes of getting a good image were not high. Suddenly the clouds beyond the skerry of Sgeir an Eidigh parted and allowed the most intense of crepuscular rays to shine down on the Isle of Eigg and silhouetted it against the golden backdrop that they had created. It is a moment that is forever etched on my memory.
The Isle of Eigg at Sunset viewed through the entrance to Kentra Bay, Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 9: Through the Gap - Kentra Bay, Arivegaig, Ardnamurchan
​On leaving Ardtoe to head back towards Acharacle, you’ll find that a slight diversion down the road towards Arivegaig rewards you with a fine view out through the entrance of Kentra Bay to Eigg, where An Sgurr sits directly behind the gap between the land and the sea (Image 9). 
A full moon over the Small Isles of Eigg and Rum, viewed from Arivegaig, Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 10: Cold Last Moon I - Kentra Bay, Arivegaig, Ardnamurchan
The road to Arivegaig is also a spot where you can catch a full moon setting behind the Rùm Cuillin on a clear winter morning (Image 10). ​

​West Ardnamurchan

The Small Isles of Eigg and Rum viewed from Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 11: Two Small Isles - Eigg & Rùm from the road to Kilchoan at Doire Daraich, Ardnamurchan
​The next part of the journey west takes you along the side of Loch Sunart and it is a good few miles before you see the Small Isles again because the road now takes you along the southern coast of the Ardnamurchan Peninsula. It is not until you pass Camas nan Geall and follow the road north around the side of Ben Hiant to reach Doire Daraich before they come back into view again (Image 11). 
A dusk view of the phonebox at Kilmory, Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 12: Dusk Calling - Kilmory, Ardnamurchan
Given how far west you have travelled to reach there, the perspective is now very different because Eigg now sits to the right of Rùm, while the drive down to Kilmory brings the Muck back into view as reach the phone box just before the village (Image 12).
Overlooking the bay at Inverockle to Eigg and Rùm, Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 13: Overlooking the bay at Inverockle to Eigg and Rùm with Skye on the distant north-eastern horizon
It is this part of the Ardnamurchan Peninsula that I wish to explore more in the next few months as the coastline is so dramatic and the view as you follow the road back towards the east until you reach its end at Ockle is dominated Eigg and Rùm. At Ockle, you can leave your car and take an easy walk out to the bay at Inverockle where you get a splendid view of these to islands as well as the Isle of Skye, which to their east out on the northern horizon evening (Image 13).

​This small rocky bay offers many photographic opportunities, and I am looking forward to revisiting it to capture it’s many rocky inlets while they are bathed in the light of a late summer evening (Image 14).

Leaving Ockle and heading back towards the west takes you on a loop to the south, through Kilchoan and then back out to the northern coast again. Before making for Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, you can take the road to Portuairk or Sanna and, if you’re looking for another breath-taking view of the Small Isles, then I tend to think that Portuairk is your best bet. 
Sunlight on the rocky north Ardnamurchan Coastline at Inverockle | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 14: Patience - Inverockle, Ockle, Ardnamurchan
The Small Isles of Muck and Rum viewed from Portuairk | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 15: Pink Rùm & Muck - The Small Isles of Rùm and Muck viewed from Portuairk, Ardnamurchan
It is from the hills above Portuairk from where I think you get the most dramatic view of Rùm and the magnificent peaks of its Cuillin mountain range. It is simply majestic, sitting there beyond Sanna Bay and the significantly more diminutive Isle of Muck (Image 15). 
Sundown at Sanna Bay, Ardnamurchan | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 16: Sanna Sundown I - Sanna Bay, Sanna, Ardnamurchan
​While there, it is well worth taking the walk from Portuairk to the beautiful white sand beach at Sanna because, as you climb over the hill that separates the two, another magnificent view of the Small Isles reveals itself (Image 16). It is from there that you can see all the Small Isles because the fourth and, up until now, elusive Isle of Canna reveals itself. If you stop there for a little whole and look north over the beach you can just make it out, sitting well out the west of the Isle of Rùm, which has Eigg to its east and Muck to its south.

Journey’s End

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse during a summer sunset | Steven Marshall Photography
Image 17: Wave Symphony I - Ardnamurchan Lighthouse from Dubh Rubha Mor, Ardnamurchan
Our journey from east to west along this beautiful Moidart and Ardnamurchan coastline ends at Ardnamurchan Point. It is as far west as you can go on the British Mainland and is home to the iconic Ardnamurchan Lighthouse which so many visitors head for when they visit the West Highland Peninsulas.
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While you do get a clear view of the Small Isles from there, they do not readily sit in any photographic composition that features the lighthouse because the camera tends to point in a direction looking away from them or is at an angle where the islands are hidden by the lighthouse itself.

It takes a walk out on to the rocks of Dubh Rubha Mor at low tide before you can point the camera north, across the bay of Briaghlann, and capture both the lighthouse and the now familiar profile of Rùm and Muck behind it and it seems fitting that I end this journey with an image of the sun setting on this very scene (Image 17). 
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Hidden History Near the Corran Lighthouse

20/3/2021

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With some time to spare after travelling back across the Corran Narrows on the ferry, I found myself up at the Ardgour War Memorial looking at signs of something that had gone before which had been a small part of a huge military project that is thought to have played a key role in bringing World War I to an end ….
Corran Lighthouse and Lodge in the Spring Sunshine | Steven Marshall Photography
Corran Lighthouse and Lodge in the Spring Sunshine

​Time on my Hands

​Last week, I found myself with an unexpected hour or so to spare at Corran Point, so decided to go for a walk and find the Ardgour War Memorial, which is located up on a bank just south of the lighthouse and above the road. The main reason for doing this was to scout out the location in advance of me going there at some point after dark to photograph the Memorial under the stars. This is something that I do when preparing for most of my night shots as it is so much easier to figure out a composition in daylight than it is in the pitch dark.
PictureArdgour War Memorial near Corran Lighthouse | Steven Marshall Photography
Ardgour War Memorial near Corran Lighthouse
​Having walked from the Corran Ferry, I reached the bend in the road by the Lighthouse and followed a track up into a field beyond a metal gate. I found the War Memorial at the top of a bank overlooking Loch Linnhe, with expansive views all the way down its full length to the south. The Memorial itself is typical of the many that you find scattered across the Highlands, consisting of a granite Celtic cross and plinth mounted on a base of what seemed to be made of local stone.

Taking a Moment and Thinking Ahead

​I took a moment to stand by the memorial while looking at the wreath of red poppies that had been laid at the base of the Celtic Cross and reading the words inscribed on the plinth beneath it:
IN MEMORIAM
PARISH OF ARDGOUR
THE GREAT WAR 1914-18
          

DO'N GHINEALACH A RINN ÌOBAIRT SADH FHUILING
CRUADAL, S A SHEALBHAICH BUAIDH
          
​

TO THE GENERATION WHICH BORE THE SACRIFICES
AND BY SHARING IN THE HARDSHIPS, ACHIEVED VICTORY
The Granite Celtic Cross and Plinth of the Ardgour War Memorial | Steven Marshall Photography
The Granite Celtic Cross and Plinth of the Ardgour War Memorial
​Gradually, I began thinking ahead to my future shot of the War Memorial under the stars and, eventually, I began looking at different shot angles of the Memorial to see if I could find some compositions that might work for the photograph that I had in mind. My plan is to take it later in the year when the Milky Way will be at its best, with its cloudy core above the horizon in the south to south-west sky. My aim is to produce something similar to these two shots that I’ve taken of the Strontian and Moidart war memorials in previous years.
Strontian War Memorial under the stars | Steven Marshall Photography
Strontian War Memorial
Moidart War Memorial Under the Stars | Steven Marshall Photography
Moidart War Memorial
While doing this, I noticed that the Memorial’s stone base was sitting on what appeared to be a metal ring with several bolts protruding from it. You can see the metal ring and bolts in the picture below and the more that I thought about them, the more I couldn’t help wondering what they had been used for. 
The Base of the Ardgour War Memorial | Steven Marshall Photography
The Base of the Ardgour War Memorial

Playing on My Mind

This played on my mind for a day or two, leading me to do a bit of research to find out more about them. After looking at a few sources, I found some information in the Highland Historic Environment Record, that suggested that a gun battery was built on that spot in 1917, to provide protection for the United States ships unloading naval mines at Corpach that were then transported in smaller boats through the Caledonian Canal to the US Naval Base at Inverness.

Further research uncovered a report titled “The Built Heritage of the First World War in Scotland” that was commissioned by Historic Scotland which confirms that the gun battery was built there and that it comprised two 15-pdr guns and one 7.5-inch howitzer bolted down onto steel rings called holdfasts, which were set into plain concrete slabs. It turns out that the War Memorial was built on one of these concrete slabs and the steel ring at its base is one of these holdfasts. The Imperial War Museum does have a photograph of the gun battery which was taken in 1918 and shows the Royal Marine Gun Crews manning the guns. In it, you can see that there is no parapet around the guns and that the ammunition for them was stored in wooden lockers close by. I’ve asked the Imperial War Museum for a licence to publish this photograph and hope to be able to share it with you at some point.

A Small Part of a Big Picture

Another question came to my mind while I was researching all this – Why was the United States Navy shipping naval mines to Corpach and then transporting them up the Caledonian Canal to Inverness? Well, the answer is that the mines were being used in the North Sea Mine Barrage which was a large minefield laid easterly from the Orkney Islands, right across the top of the North Sea to Norway with the aim of preventing the U-Boats making their way from their bases in Germany and out into the Atlantic to attack the convoys that were bringing supplies from the United States to the British Isles.
​
Laying this mine barrage was a huge undertaking and until World War II, it was the largest ever laid. It spanned the entire 230-mile width of the North Sea from Orkney and Norway and was between 15 to 35 miles wide. The Allied Forces began laying the mines in June 1918 and within a matter of a few months they had laid just over 70,000 of them at a total cost of just over £1bn in today’s money. The barrage was considered to be a great success and is credited with the destruction or damage of up to 21 U-Boats, but probably its greater effect was in shattering the morale of German submarine crews, thus helping to bring about the revolt of German seamen that marked the beginning of the defeat of Germany in World War I.

​Hidden History

​So there you have it, a tiny little bit of history hidden beneath the Ardgour War Memorial in the form of a steel ring and some bolts giving a small clue of something that went before. I would never have thought that these incongruous bolts would have been part of what today would be the equivalent of a £1bn military project that is thought to have played a key part in bringing World War I to an end. A war that left more than 16 million people dead and also helped to spread one of the world’s deadliest global pandemics, the Spanish flu epidemic of 1918, which killed an estimated 20 to 50 million people. Poignant, very poignant indeed.
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A Winter Like I Remember

21/2/2021

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We’re coming to the end of this winter. One during which we had the coldest January since 2010. One of snow and of cold and clear weather and one that has been productive from a photographic perspective. See some of the images I’ve captured and find out a bit about the story behind them….
The River Shiel with a fresh fall of overnight snow covering the branches of the trees on its banks and the steely blue of the morning colouring the river’s surface | Moidart Scotland
Steely Winter Blues - River Shiel, Blain, Moidart

How Do You Cope with all the Snow?

We are fast approaching the start of Meteorological Spring (March, April and May) and also the end of my fifth winter since moving to the Peninsulas. There is a noticeable difference in the hours of daylight as the nights shorten and it will not be long before the landscape begins to spring back into life. I find myself thinking back on the winter months of December, January and February; and also a question I’m often asked by people visiting – “How do you cope with all the snow in winter?”
​
Why this question gets asked always intrigues me. It seems to always happen when standing on the decking outside my studio looking at Loch Sunart and all the hills that surround it. Could it be because this remote and rugged landscape looks foreboding? Could it be because we are well north of where most people live? Who knows? Well, whatever it is, my answer is always the same - “It’s never a problem here as we don’t get that much snow and when we do get it, it is usually only high up on the hills. In fact, if the snow does fall down here at sea level, it only lasts a day or two at the very most and I guess that being on a bit of land that sticks out into the sea on the west coast means that the Gulf Stream keeps the temperatures up”.

​​This is indeed true and it is complete contrast to the snowy winters I experienced when growing up on the east side of Scotland when, in the days without central heating, thick frost would form on the inside of the windows and we’d need to scrape a little hole in it to reveal what was outside. I do miss “proper” winters like that, but looking back over the last few months, it certainly feels as if we’ve had one this time. In fact, we’ve just had our coldest January since 2010, with the average temperature recording in Scotland being 0.6°C while my weather station here at Resipole recorded an average of 2.9°C. The strong northerly air flow that brought the low temperatures also brought substantial sunshine with it and plenty of cold, crisp and clear days on which I just had to get out with the camera.

​First Snow and Winter Inspiration

Looking back through my images from the last few months reminded me that this “proper” winter weather was not just limited to January. Indeed, we saw our first snow at the end of November while having a staycation at Kingairloch Estate over on the east side of the Peninsulas. We woke up on a morning towards the end of our week away to see snow on the distant high peaks of Glencoe and the Mamores. This prompted a drive up the shore of Loch Linnhe to get a closer look.

​The snow-capped mountains looked lovely under the clear blue sky and we just had to stop at Lochan Doire a' Bhraghaid to take in the view. From there you get a fantastic view of Ben Nevis because you can see it through a gap in the hills above Inversanda. While there, I took this shot of the snow-covered slopes of Ben Nevis, some 17 miles to the north and made a mental note to myself to come back at some point and capture it when it had the first light of a winter day on it.
The first snow of winter on the summit of Ben Nevis, viewed some 17 miles distant and across the surface of Lochan Doire a' Bhraghaid | Ardgour Scotland
First Snow on the Ben I - Ben Nevis viewed from Lochan Doire a' Bhraghaid, Inversanda, Ardgour

Searching for Some Light

This first of the winter snow on the hills lasted for just over a week, but before it disappeared, I headed to West Ardnamurchan and up to a spot high on the slopes of Beinn Bhuidhe above Glenmore. It’s a great place to capture panoramic views of Loch Sunart or use a long lens to not only pick out elements of the high hills of Morvern on the other side of Loch Sunart, but also of Loch Teacuis, which cuts its way southwards into them.
 
Unfortunately, I always seem to time my visits to the slopes of Beinn Bhuidhe on days when the light does not want to do what I need it to do. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve left Resipole under promising looking skies only to arrive at my spot and find thick cloud and no light on the landscape. I thought that this time was going to be another like that because thick cloud greeted me on my arrival.
 
As I followed the path up to Beinn Bhuidhe, I kept looking at the cloud filled sky in the hope that it would clear a little and let through some light, but it didn’t. Undeterred, I set up at my chosen spot and sat for about an hour, sheltering as best I could from the biting easterly wind, while looking through the long-lens I’d fitted to the camera in search of some compositions that might work if the light did appear. I had almost given up hope, but in the few minutes before the sun was due to dip below the hills to the south-west, a small gap appeared to let a patch of light fall on the snow-capped peak of Beinn Iadain, one of the high peaks of Morvern. The resulting image shows the peak of Ben Iadain sporting a crown of golden light with the north facing slopes of Beinn Ghormaig, the Isle Carna and the Isle of Risga sitting in front of it.
The snow-capped peak of Beinn Iadain lit up with golden light of a sunset with Beinn Ghormaig, the Isle Carna and the Isle of Risga in the foreground | Morvern Scotland
Golden Crown I - Beinn Iadain, Morvern

​An Afternoon of Serendipity

​Thankfully, not all my shots are so hard won and occasionally good fortune smiles on me. In early December, a few weeks after my time on Beinn Bhuidhe, I had a batch of Christmas orders to take to the Post Office in Acharacle and while packing them all into the car, I could not help but notice some hints of colour appearing in the sky to the west. It looked promising, so I decided to take my camera gear with me just in case. I sure wasn’t disappointed with what unfolded.
 
As I drove down into the village, I could see the mist beginning to form in the air above Loch Shiel, so instead of going straight to the Post Office, I took the short detour down to the jetty in village to check out the conditions on the loch. As I stood on the jetty, I watched the pinks and purples of a winter sunset intensify while mist rolled down the loch and I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of calm, as well as whole load of good fortune about my decision to take my camera gear with me.
 
I was there for well over an hour, photographing scenes in different directions and under different light conditions before deciding that I really needed to get to the Post Office before it closed. Both jobs done. Parcels posted and a number of “keepers” captured including this panoramic image of the sunset colours at their peak.
A gloriously pink dusk on a frosty day looking over Loch Shiel to a snow-capped Ben Resipole | Ardnamurchan Scotland
Descending Calm - Loch Shiel, Acharacle, Ardnamurchan

A Plan Comes Together

​Finding myself in January and in a new year, my mind was still set on capturing the shot of the first light of the day on the snow covered peak of Ben Nevis. The shot that I had thought of when I saw the first snow of this winter on the hills back in November.
 
With clouds usually covering its summit for nearly 80% of the winter months, photographing Ben Nevis sure turned out to be a bit of a wating game. There needed to be a clear morning during a spell of the weather cold enough to put snow on the Ben and freeze the surface of Lochan Doire a' Bhraghaid. Finally, at the start of the second week in January, the conditions seemed very promising and I headed up into the hills above Inversanda for sunrise in the hope that I’d get the shot I was looking for.
 
Setting up in the dark, I couldn’t see if Ben Nevis was clear of cloud, but the moon and stars above my head suggested that it could be. As I waited for the first light of what was a very cold January morning to appear, the mountain began to emerge from the darkness and it looked as if my luck was in. Eventually, the first light of the day shone on its south facing upper slopes and there was just enough cloud to enhance the pink of the sunrise which, even at a distance of 17 miles, was reflected back onto the frozen surface of the lochan. I love it when a plan comes together.
The first light of a cold January morning hitting the south facing upper slopes and cloud-capped peak of Ben Nevis with the pinks sunrise reflected onto the frozen surface of Lochan Doire a' Bhraghaid | Ardgour Scotland
First High-Light I – Ben Nevis viewed from Lochan Doire a' Bhraghaid, Inversanda, Ardgour

Time for a Plan B

​The last week in January brought a few days of very heavy snowfall which, very unusually left a couple of inches of the white stuff all the way down to the seashore. Equally unusual were day and night-time temperatures so low that the snow at sea level did not disappear. As I watched successive tides wash fresh falls of snow from the loch shore, I thought that an image of snow lying on a sandy beach all the way down to the water would be worth capturing and that the beach at Ardtoe would be a great place to do it.
 
With this in mind, I awoke early on a morning after heavy overnight snow had been forecast. On opening the curtains to a freshly snow-covered landscape, I decided to head out to Ardtoe. With much anticipation, I left the house but as I drove closer and closer to my destination the clear skies became more and more obscured by mist. This is not unusual because the low ground around Loch Shiel often cradles mist on cold and still winter mornings. So undeterred, I continued my journey to the beach as experience suggested that it would be clear there. However, it was not to be and I was greeted by a snow-covered beach shrouded in thick mist. The more I waited for the mist to clear, the thicker and thicker it seemed to become, so I eventually decided to head home.
 
On the drive back through a beautiful snow-covered landscape, I thought that the conditions were too good to submit to failure and began racking my brains to figure out a place where a combination of misty conditions and fresh snow fall could work together. I eventually decided to take a small detour to the old bridge over the River Shiel at Blain to see what it was like there. When I arrived, I was not disappointed. The scene was stunning with all the trees covered in the freshly fallen snow and some beautiful light fighting its way through the mist behind the bridge. After an extremely productive half hour, I left with a few images, including this one of the bridge, with the river beneath it coloured by golden light fighting to break through the mist behind it.  Thank heavens for a little local knowledge and for figuring out a Plan B.
The old bridge over the River Shiel at dawn after a fresh fall of overnight snow, with the golden light of the rising sun colouring the sky and the river | Moidart Scotland
Winter River of Gold I - River Shiel, Blain, Moidart

​A Winter I Will Remember

​It’s been a winter just like the ones I remember from my childhood. I’ll remember it not only for its snow and its cold, clear days but also for it being a winter that has given me an extremely productive time for my photography. The images I’ve included in this blog are just a small sample of those that I’ve captured and if you’d like to see more, you can find the in the Recent Images Gallery on this website. I hope you enjoy them.
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Faeries, the Stuff of Legends

6/4/2020

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I took the following photograph on a late winter afternoon as light fell on some of the hundreds of moss-covered boulders that lie amongst the trees in Ariundle Oakwood near Strontian and couldn’t help being reminded of the faerie mounds where the sídhe are said to live. Read on to find out more about these mythological creatures….
Fairy Hills - Ariundle Oakwood, Strontian, Sunart
Light falling on what looks like faerie mounds - Ariundle Oakwood near Strontian
What’s in a Name?

​If you take a walk through Ariundle Oakwood, you’ll see a woodland floor covered with hundreds of moss-covered boulders which, with a little bit of imagination, could be mistaken for mounds that are home to the mythological sídhe, a supernatural race comparable to the faeries or elves. Indeed, the nearby village of Strontian got its name because of the faeries. In Scottish Gaelic, it is called Sròn an t-Sìthein, which translates as the ‘nose of the fairy hill’ and means a knoll or low round hill inhabited by the sídhe. ​
These faeries, or sídhe (pronounced shee), play a large part in Scottish folklore. So much so that there are many places in addition to Strontian that owe their name to these mythical creatures. They include Glenshee, meaning ‘fairy glen’ or ‘glen of the fairy hills’; Schiehallion, meaning ‘fairy hill of the Caledonians’; Ben Hee (from Beinn Shìth ‘fairy mountain’) and similarly Ben Tee above Loch Lochy is Beinn an t-Sìth ‘mountain of the fairies’. Many more examples exist, all stemming from a time when every waterway, well and loch had a name, and an ancient faerie to protect it. 
One of the 'Fair People' in Ariundle Oakwood?
One of the 'Fair People' in Ariundle Oakwood?
Going back to Strontian, or Sròn an t-Sìthein, the term sìthein (pronounced shee-an) often referred to small conical hills with hollow interiors containing an invisible world within which it was believed that faeries coexisted with the world of humans. They were thought to have had a huge influence on how successful the annual harvest would be and if a crop failed it was sometimes thought that someone had violated or upset them. So, before you decide to go walking in the fields or forests by yourself, it is perhaps best if you know a little bit about the various faeries, their significance and how not to upset them.

​Respect, Honesty and No Green

Most important of all is to never let a faerie overhear you calling them faeries as they do not like this. They prefer to be called ‘fair folk’ and are very sensitive creatures, so do not be rude, or you might suffer the consequences. Also, you should always be honest with a faerie as they will know if you have lied to them, and not surprisingly, they don’t take kindly to that either. Finally, wearing the colour ‘green’, is also not advisable, as faeries see this as a colour that belongs to them.

There are many different kinds of fairies. Some take on human form, some take the form of creatures, some can fly, and all can appear and disappear at will. Some will fool you with comical antics, some will lure you with beauty and some will just plainly let you know how they feel about a human intrusion.

Coming across ‘fair folk’ like Buachailleen, Brownies, Gnomes, the Gruagach, Heather Pixies, Pixies and Seelie Courts can be a very rewarding and magical experience, as most of these faeries enjoy being mischievous, shy and friendly. The same cannot be said for the Ghillie Dhu, Kelpies, Nucklelavees or Fachans. Most of these faeries dislike humans intensely and an encounter with one of them folk could end badly for you. In particular, make sure you avoid the Black Angus or Cù-sìth, which means "faery dog". If this large black dog with yellow eyes and sharp fangs shows itself to you, the legend says that you will die in a fortnight. 

Belief in the ‘fair folk’ continues to this day, with stories being told in the early twentieth century of unwary humans being lured inside the sìthein at night, only to emerge the following morning and discover that decades had passed in the outside world. Other tales detail the abduction of unbaptised babies, or doomed romances with the fairy folk, and the various ills which befell those who dared to refuse them hospitality.

Even as recently as January this year (2020), plans for a fish farm in Loch Pooltiel off the north-west coast of Skye were rejected after campaigners warned that fishermen could be lured to their deaths by Ashrays. Also known as Asrais, these faeries are completely translucent water creatures and are often mistaken for sea ghosts. A group of campaigners called Friends of the Eilean Fhlodaigearraidh Faeries warned that workers' lives could be put at risk by the creatures, who could 'lure them with promises of gold and jewels into the deepest part of the ocean'.

It’s not all bad though, because as long as you respect the faeries and stick to the rules how not to upset them, then you should be safe on your walk through the oakwoods. Remember to call them ‘fair folk’, do not be rude or dishonest and finally, don’t wear green.
Light falling on what looks like faerie mounds - Ariundle Oakwood near Strontian
Autumn light falling through the trees on the walk to the abandoned croft at Ariundle Oakwood
The falling leaves of autumn settling on moss covered rocks of the Allt na Meinne at the entrance to Ariundle Oakwood
The intensity of the colour of autumn leaves contrasts against the dark of the moss-covered rocks of the Allt na Meinne at the entrance to Ariundle Oakwood
An iPhone shot of a twisted old oak tree stands proud against a misty backdrop in the Ariundle Oakwood
An iPhone shot of what could be little 'faerie mounds' at the foot a tree in Ariundle Oakwood
The River Strontian flows down through the Ariundle Oakwood from the misty high ground beneath the snow-covered peak of Sgurr Dhomhnuill
Winter sun tries to break through a thick stand of birch trees in Ariundle Oakwood
Images of SunartYou will find other images of Ariundle Oakwood and the wider area of Sunart in the Images of Sunart gallery on this website.  If you’d like a print of any one of them, please feel free to get in touch. Also get in touch if you’d like to arrange some photography tuition.  
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Tips for Stargazing on the West Highland Peninsulas

1/2/2020

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If you're planning a visit here to the West Highland Peninsulas of Ardgour, Ardnamurchan, Moidart, Morvern and Sunart, then here are some tips on how best to enjoy some of the darkest night skies in Europe
PictureSouthern Night - Loch Sunart, Rockpool House, Resipole, Sunart
The autumn night sky from Rockpool House

​After living for almost 30 years in and around Glasgow, I moved to Rockpool House located right on the shore of Loch Sunart and was immediately blown away by the number of stars I could see in the sky on a dark, clear night. Three years have passed and my interest in night photography has become a passion that produces some of my most popular images and the recent acquisition of a telescope now has me doing a bit of stargazing. So, in this blog, I thought I’d share a few tips for exploring the night sky if you visit here and find yourself a under a sky that is so dark that you can see the Milky Way and over 7000 stars.

​Where to Go
While I can walk out of the front door and see these 7000 stars, I usually go a little further afield to photograph the landscape under the night sky. I usually look for places with a clear view south or south-west to photograph the Milky Way and places with a clear horizon to the north that overlook water to photograph the Northern Lights. If you are here, then I suggest that you go to one of the seven places that are listed on the Dark Skies page of the West Highland Peninsulas website.

When to Go
I find that the best time to photograph or look at the night sky is in the time window between 2 hours after sunset and 2 hours before sunrise. As we are pretty far North, this means that the best times of year to look are Autumn, Winter and Spring when the nights are long and dark enough. Also, the light from the moon can make it difficult to see the stars, so it is best to look when there is little or no moon in the sky. Given this, it is best to check our local sun and moon times to decide when best to go out. You should also check the weather for when clear nights are forecast.

​How to Look
  • ​Use your naked eyes – You can see a lot with just your naked eyes. All you need to do is to give them 10-15 minutes to adjust fully to the dark. Be patient and you will find that you’ll suddenly see twice as many stars.
  • Use a red torch – Once your eyes have adjusted to the dark it is very easy to lose your “night vision”. Avoid using and looking at bright lights. Instead use a red light, such as a bike light, as this doesn’t affect you night vision.
  • Stay warm – Clear, dark nights are often very cold, so wrap up warm. Wear plenty of layers, a hat and gloves. If you are going to be out for a while, think about using heat wraps or charcoal hand warmers.
  • Use Star Charts – Use a star chart to find your way around. These can be downloaded free from Skymaps.com. Alternatively, you can use a smartphone app such as Pocket Universe.
​
​What to See
  • ​Milky Way – The best way to see it is by looking directly overhead during autumn and early winter evenings and you'll see this shimmering river of light streaming through the constellations of Cassiopeia and Cygnus.
  • Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) – They can happen at any time of the year, but the best time is the Autumn and Winter when the sky is really dark, with Autumn being better as it tends to have more clear nights. Check AuroraWatch UK or Aurora Alert  for forecasts and alerts.
  • Stars and Constellations – Winter is the best time, when you can look to the south and see the grand constellations of winter: Orion, Taurus, Auriga, Perseus, Cassiopeia, Gemini, and Canis Major.  These constellations are rich with stars and star clusters, with the most brilliant stars being Capella, Castor and Pollux, Procyon, Sirius, Rigel, Aldebaran, and Betelgeuse.
  • Planets – From March and the onset of Spring, the visible planets of Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn grace our skies after sunset and during the night. First are Mercury and Venus in the west right after sunset, with Venus being the brighter of the two. Next is Jupiter rising in the east around midnight. Mars follows in the time between midnight and sunrise and Saturn appears in early morning.
  • Meteor Showers – They happen at predictable times throughout the year and are best seen when the moon is absent, which will change from year to year. Look out for the annual Quadrantids (January), Lyrids (April), Perseids (August), Orionids (peaks in October), Leonids (November) and Geminids (December). If you do try see them, then spend at least an hour outside doing so as they tend to happen in fits and starts. Check out Earthsky.org’s meteor shower guide for the best times to look.
You will find the images featured in this blog, along with many more, in the “Our Night Sky”  photo gallery. If you’d like a print of any one of them, please feel free to get in touch. Also get in touch if you’d like to arrange some night photography tuition. 
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    Hi,

    ​I’m Steven Marshall, a Scottish landscape photographer based at Rockpool House in the heart of the beautiful West Highland Peninsulas of Sunart, Morvern, Moidart, Ardgour and Ardnamurchan.

    My studio on the shore of Loch Sunart at Resipole showcases a selection of my work and I have prints, calendars, jigsaws, cards, postcards, mugs, coasters, and other items for sale.

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